Monday, October 29, 2018

The Reason We Like Dimly Lit and Seedy Places...

The last time I went downtown – to Nakivubo Stadium to be precise and before it was peddled off to pave way for a shopping mall, was probably seven years ago when Aga Sekalala and Co used to host Ekigunda Ky’Omwwaaka – a music festival that kicked off at 6:00am on Sunday and ended at 6:00am on Monday! The thing about Ekigunda Ky’Omwwaka is that, most fans came from deep rural Buganda - from kyalos whose names when read out, sounded more like some nasty terminal village disease than a name of a kyalo.

Simba FMs Ekigunda
Most of the day while the sun was still up, the crowd is the most pleasant one. They are relaxed and strolling through the countless food stalls or simply basking in the middle of the football pitch watching the various artistes do their thing on stage.

Then comes that hour when daylight takes a back seat and dusk sets in. It last all but five minutes – no tell a lie, it’s almost as instantaneous as flicking a light switch from ‘on’ to ‘off’ and that it. That split second transformation from light to darkness is what the crowd have been waiting for.

Ugandans have a love darkness. I don’t know where the craze came from – perhaps from the era of endless nights of load shedding towards in the 90s and into the millennium. But that’s beside the point. While we used to complain about load shedding, on the other hand, it was something we wholeheartedly embraced just like the crowd at Ekiggunda do once the skies darken.

The sedate day time crowd start shuffling about and breaking down from crowds an into pairs or rather couples, with each couple looking for the darkest spot in the stadium to call their own for the rest of the night.

Just Dark Enough
In the late 90s when I was still new in town after decades of a sojourn abroad, I was invited out to a kafunda in Wandegeya for a drink just before darkness set in. As I waited for Host to arrive, in walked a couple and after scanning the layout of the gardens, they took their place at a table in the corner that fairly lit. Five minutes later, Dude walks up to Waitress who after a brief discussion returns with a chap who was obviously the handyman. Handyman wasted no time in unscrewing the bulb where Couple had perched themselves and plunged the corner into a dark abyss.     

Just Enough Light
Andy The Greek used to own a restaurant called err, Andy The Greek. What used to amaze him, is how most of his Ugandan customers would literary beg for a table to be set in the far flung corners of the gardens especially behind shrubbery or the roses. He tells the tale of Regular Client who always requested for a table to be placed behind a thicket along with an umbrella – something that he found odd especially at night. But there was a reason. Once he and Female Companion were settled in the plastic chairs, Regular Client would lower the umbrella so low that they couldn’t be seen by others that it was almost like being in the darkest part of sin city.    

Dark Enough To Get Away With It
Nakulabye is umbrella city in that each kafunda in the area has more than a multitude of them – in fact more than they actually need. One night and on my first visit and at night when I returned from the not so pleasant toilets, with all the umbrellas and coupled with load shedding, I couldn’t remember where we were sitting. Straining my eyes I thought I saw a table and umbrella that looked familiar except that when I took my seat, out came this gruff voice wanting to know what I wanted with his woman. A hasty retreat was made.           

Too Much Light At Miki's Pub?
  

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